Camino Portuguese, segment from Baiona to Santiago de Compostela, Spain, and travels around Madrid - June 18 to July 3, 2025

My 2025 Camino de Santiago Adventure

Planning...

Walking the Camino de Santiago for a vacation/expedition first occurred to me about 18 months ago. Walking long distances symbolizes a life journey, with trials, growth, and transformation along the way. A long trek fits well my stage in life.  

As you may know, the Camino de Santiago (Camino walk), also known as Way of St. James, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a European historic pilgrimage route leading to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. According to legend the remains of Saint James, one of Christ's Apostles, are buried in Santiago (named after Saint James). Apparently, Saint James preached the Gospel on the Iberian Peninsula (modern-day Spain and Portugal), so his remains were brought to this location for burial.  

Starting in the Middle Ages, walking to the tomb of Saint James became popular and was a form of penance and spiritual purification. Pilgrims/people walked to Santiago from all parts of Europe. These days, people walk the Camino for personal, spiritual, or emotional reasons—not only religious. For me, this walk forces a slower and very different daily pace, time for personal reflection.  

There are many Camino routes that end in Santiago de Compostela. I was immediately attracted to pursue the Camino Portugese, given its coastal segments. In my mind's eye, I can see the Atlantic coast, smell the ocean, and taste the fresh seafood!  

Initially, I considered walking the Camino Portugese solo, meaning, I would follow the route on my own each day, marked by yellow arrows and clam shells. I imagined it would be an interesting independent adventure.  While visualizing this option, I soon realized my Camino experience will be far more peaceful if I focus on enjoying the surroundings rather than preoccupation with the "right pace" to reach my overnight destination and second guessing if I am headed in the correct direction. 

I chose another, tamer option: a guided group Camino Portugese walk. It will be calmer for me and more enjoyable than solo. I expect I will also learn more about the local culture and history from our guide. My Group Camino Portugese walk starts June 21st and ends June 27th.  Camino Portugese is in Portugal and Spain.

In 2001, I had traveled with my family to Portugal with a small group of the International Commission on the History of Geological Sciences. We visited various cultural, geologic, and historic sites. One that I will always remember was a Roman silver mine with a very narrow shaft. Only children could get through this shaft. Our son, Noel was 11 years old, freely enjoying the trip. If he had lived during Roman time, in that place, he might have been one of the children miners. 

The trip was a great learning and cultural and experience!  So why not again on foot?  Sign me up!

                                             

After I signed up, I checked the walking map more carefully. 🧐 Imagine my surprise (and embarrassement), when I reviewed the Camino Portugese Group walking map and realized that no portion is in Portugal.  The Portuguese part 2 that I am walking is entirely in Spain. 😐 It starts in Baiona and ends at Santiago de Compostela, the Galicia region of Spain.  I like Spain! 

Once I scheduled my Camino walk, I started planning the few days before after the walk. I will be in Spain from June 18th to July 3rd.

The Camino Portugese Group walk is 126 km.

This walk passes through centuries-old villages and traverses through very old to recent geological formations. The Galicia region geology in the vicinity of my walk includes the oldest granitoids, around 300 million years old, to most recent, sedimentary coastal deposits less than 1000 years old.   

My Camino walk starts in Baiona and ends in Santiago de Compostela. 126 Km in 7 days. I think I am up to it.

I booked a direct flight on Iberia Airlines from San Francisco to Madrid (on 6/17), and from Madrid back home  (on 7/3).  My day trips for the extra days before and after the Camino are booked. 

Lots of prep for this trip. Have you heard of  “1000 mile socks”?!  I got them.  Also, my long-time blister help, moleskin. Three packs, just in case – on this point, I disagree with Rick Steves. I am a "bring just in case" person. Always have been. Aah, the right gear. Gear to preserve my feet – well-worn light boots with ankle support. Clothes – layers rule. My trusty wind breaker/rain jacket. I bought a new daypack, although I really wanted to use my trusty fanny pack. But, I suspect the daypack will be more practical for carrying daily gear, water, food. 

For the past 3 months, weekly, I have been hiking/walking on average about 20 miles in addition to routine daily hour+ swimming, and twice weekly gym strengthening workouts. I have been listening to and watching Rick Steves videos about packing light (only bringing a small daypack and 1 carry on: 20”x14”x9”). His videos about traveling in Spain and Camino hiking have me primed! I am convinced after listening to these inspirational videos there are many good reasons to pack light. I have my moneybelt, a small daypack, and as prescribed, a small carry-on. That's it for 17 days.

 

June 17, Take-off off; arrival in Madrid, June 18

I am happy to report that the flight from San Francisco to Madrid was uneventful. Iberia Airlines served a very nice dinner with wine and coffee.  I dosed off and slept most of the 11.5 hour flight. By the time I was woken up for breakfast we had 36 minutes to go until landing.

The entry customs experience was what you might expect - initially, mass confusion about lines, so just a crowd pushing forward. People were pretty civilized though, so no shoving or angry words. The mass movement funneled into 2 lines, which eventually coalesced into 1 orderly line. Many line zig-zags. After that, the tricky part was exiting the airport to get a taxi to my hotel in center of town.

Just as I thought I was done with zig-zagging out of the airport, the next zig-zag I met rivaled customs.

I surrendered to my next wait figuring it was at least 1 hour. What else can you do? The line was at least a couple of hundred people long. Now I understood why the guy at information suggested taking the bus and metro. 

Surprise! The guides managing this process had it together! 20 minutes later I was sitting in an air conditioned cab, happily heading to Madrid’s center. Thirty-five minutes later, I was thrilled to be deposited in front of my hotel, located on the Plaza De Espana. 

I feel welcomed in Madrid! 

Somehow, my room was upgraded and I had a bottle of Tempranillo waiting for 

me. I am on the 8th floor.

  

After settling in, I walked up to the 15th floor (to get some exercise), because a pool and a view are advertised as worth experiencing.

What do you think? 

There is a bus stop in front, so I took the bus 001 to connect with a city tour. I missed the Hop-on, hop-off bus this afternoon. They changed schedules from stopping at 16 stops to no stops and no evening tours. I will try again tomorrow morning.  It was light here until 10 pm and the paseo was in full swing- people walking everywhere. Now, at 11:30 pm, way past my bedtime, it is cooling down, both in activity and temperature. 

I am happy to be here!

June 19, Madrid

I explored Madrid today. According to my handy Rick Steves guide, Madrid and its suburbs are home to about 9 million people. The layers of history are evident throughout the city. Unlike superimposed geologic layers, Roman arches are next to 17th century Baroque style villas, that are next to modern apartments and shops. The city is bustling with activity - theaters, parks, concerts, street artists dressed in furry costumes (in 96F heat, no less!), of course museums. The city feels youthful with energy.  

After a morning walk around the Plaza De Espana and west (opposite to my outing yesterday) on the Gran Via, I took the 001 bus again to the start of my city tour. Today’s timing worked out well. 

Statues in the Plaza De Espana. That’s Don Quijote on the horse (statues celebrate Cervantes, the writer).

Here are some sights from the second deck of the city and history tours.

  

 

Queen Isabel 1, queen of Castile and Aragon 1474 to 1504, powerful regions of Spain. Entry to botanical gardens that are also a research center. Statue of Christopher Columbus. 

The Prado museum tour followed. I learned about the amazing art treasures that reside here.  

Some of the most impressive paintings were by Rafael, Goya, El Greco, Bosch, and an unknown student of Leonardo da Vinci.

The Bosch painting, called “the garden of earthly delights” was a bit disturbing.

The Mona Lisa, believed to have been painted during Da Vinci’s life is similar to the one we are familiar with but her eyes and lips seemed less enchanting.

Next, a quick dip and view of the sunset from the roof. Early start tomorrow to catch the RENFE train to Vigo.

June 20, Train from Madrid to Vigo, then car ride to Baiona

My day started before 5 am to get ready for the 7:14am speed train north to Vigo. I allowed ample time since I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get to the Chamartin station. Then, get through security, find my platform, and locate my cache #5, place 2D. I bought my tickets online about 5 weeks ago. To avoid ticket hiccups, I had my mobile and printed ticket. It would be a big pain to miss this train. 

The 20-minute cab drive was swift. I had a bit more than an hour to figure out my steps. The Chamartin train station is very modern, very clean, organized well, and the process is efficient. 

 

The high speed train had a desk, plugs for charging mobile devices and computers, more space for leg room than my airplane seat, and it was quiet most of the way. Every seat was taken. We hummed along at 298 km through the countryside that looked very familiar!

  

Then, the flat farmlands gave way to hilly areas, reminding me of the Sierra Foothills.

The low Galician Massif mountains appeared but no Sierra-like peaks. Between Zamora and Ourense, the high-speed train traverses steep terrain, so the train runs through many tunnels and over bridges.

About four hours later, I arrived in Vigo. Another modern, light and airy train station greeted me. The train station abuts a large shopping mall and somehow, I got turned around and found myself in the lingerie department, not the exit. A kind response to “Donde es la salida” pointed me in the direction for my next leg, a car ride (~40 km) to Biona. 

 

The bedrock in the area is part of a segment of the ancient Iberian Shield. It comprises Paleozoic rocks such as granite, schist, gneiss, and slate, formed around 300 million years ago. 

During the last glacial period (approximately 26,500 to 19,000 years ago), much of the area was exposed as the sea level was significantly lower. As sea levels rose, the coastline was reshaped into what is present today. The interplay of these factors has created the distinctive coastal landscape and rich archaeological heritage. Human activity in the Vigo area dates back to the Paleolithic (approximately 3.3 million years ago). 

There was a lot of traffic in Vigo, so it delayed my arrival in Biona. After settling in my room, I got a proper cup of coffee (this morning’s room Nespresso was weaker than poor instant coffee😟). This revived me enough for a walk to the grocery store to buy some fresh fruit.  

   

 

My home for the next 2 days. The sand is coarse, full of shell fragments, and very sparkly with grey, flat, flaky Muscovite mica weathering from the Galician Massif. Tomorrow, I meet my hiking cohort.

June 21, Summer solstice in Baiona, Evening with group

Last night sunset was at 10:09pm. I walked the beach in the evening and had to stay until the sun went down. I knew this meant getting up for an early morning walk before they make coffee available at 8 am, was highly unlikely. My early-to-sleep routine set with the sunset.

 

It was worth staying up for! 

Since my group doesn’t meet until tonight, the day was mine. I slept in. On last night’s beach walk I discovered a kayak rental place. So, after breakfast I kayaked in the bay and upstream inlets. 

Great day for kayaking - low 70s, calm water, gentle breeze, only 1 powerboat in the distance. Even some outcrops!

Evening meet and greet…

Our first group meeting with Manuel, our guide was at 7pm, followed by dinner at 8pm. 

As I descended down the stairs to the lobby area I was startled by seeing 8 tall (6ft+), large women, obviously good friends, with mugs of beer, chatting loudly in a Scandinavian language, probably Swedish. At first I was going to introduce myself, but then I reconsidered. I had better get a beer. I walked outside got some fresh air and consoled myself that Vikings could be friendly and the main reason I came here was for the hike, history, and change.

I went back in, skipping the beer. There was another small group to the right of the Vikings. “Are you the Caminoways group?” I asked. “Yes”. To my relief, these people were more my size. The group lead is Manuel (at the head of the table), a Puertorican by birth, now lives in Vigo, and speaks fluent English. Clockwise: Laurie and Brad from Pennsylvania, whose checked-in luggage was lost (with all their hiking gear), me, Jenny from Ireland, Carol from Connecticut, and a Diane from South Africa. I think it will be an interesting Camino. We start walking at 8:30 am tomorrow. It is past my bedtime and the sun just set, so lights off.

June 22, Baiona to Vigo, 28 km ( but I did 23) Pilgrim Passport

I had a hard time waiting until coffee was ready at 8 am🥹 (usually I relish sipping my morning coffee at 5:30). After 4 expressos and a quick breakfast, we headed on the Camino. This hiking group took off at a fast clip. We headed for Vigo on the Coastal route (solid red line).

Early in our walk, we came across the typical Camino markings, fountains fed by springs, a Roman bridge, and spectacular views. Yes there were many other Camino walkers greeting us with “Buen Camino”. 

 

     

 

Group photo near lunch spot and my reward.

Initially, I was not too interested in getting a Pilgrim’s Passport, but I did get it. At the end I will receive a scroll, certifying that I walked at least 100 km.

 4 stamps collected today.

June 23, Vigo to Arcade, 14 km

After a quick breakfast and 4 weak expressos, we started walking at 7:30 am today to avoid walking up a long hill in the mid-day heat. The first leg of our hike was through Vigo until we reached the outer parts of town. 

 

Once we reached the perimeter of town the views were spectacular and reminded me of the  perimeter road on Angel Island that I have walked and biked.

 

 

The above images are from our 26km walk today. We see Camiño markers (yellow shell and arrow) frequently. Sometimes they indicate the remaining kilometers to Santiago. As we pass the markers, we are encouraged with every reduction. Commonly, we see personal leftovers dedicated by Camino walkers at the markers. One of our group left a photo of her dad who died 2 weeks ago. 

We stopped at a panoramic refreshment cafe to relax our legs and enjoy a cold drink. Of course at every stop we get our Pilgrim’s passport stamped. Often times, the stamps are whimsical. Now that I am in the Santiago Camino groove, I am enjoying collecting these. When we arrive in Santiago, a Camino “Official” Will check our passports (if we walked at least 100 km) and provide us with a scroll certifying our successful pilgrimage.

It was beautiful, hot, and very steep in parts. But very satisfying. Everyone in my group is nice and all are avid hikers, so sometimes, especially uphill long legs have the big advantage.  

June 24, Arcade to Pontevedra

We were out on the Camino at 8 am. The first leg was through Arcade, a town with lots of history, dating back to the Romans. We crossed a bridge with Roman foundations.  

  

   

     

       

 

  

       
      

   

The second leg was through a deciduous forest, next to a flowing stream with small waterfalls, then next to farms, gardens, and vineyards. We walked over remaining parts of a granite paved Roman road. I have some images of the ruts in the granite from wheels. This was the main road used for centuries for transporting goods like wine, metal, and other subsequent merchandise.  

The Spanish people treat the Camino and visitors as a special place with hospitality and kindness. People put out fruit, water, and small mementos without charging for them. The vendors we encountered were very kind and fun to talk to. Everyone wishes us a Buen Camino with a smile.

The third leg of our Camino was through Pontevedre. It is an interesting university town and everyone who walks the Camino visits the medieval Cathedral De Santiago. We walked in and received our stamps. After that we were on our own, so I walked around old town, took more photos, then sat down for a refreshment at a cafe on one of the squares and people watched, while my legs rested.

I have a great room tonight with a balcony overlooking the old town and Verdugo river. Arcade is especially known for fresh oysters, where the river meets the Ocean.

June 25, Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis, 25 km

Today, I experienced the most “leisurely” morning, because we had 1 hour instead of 30 minutes between start of breakfast and back to the Camino. It was a luxury not to gulp down coffee and shovel in yogurt, fruit, and a few slices of Iberico ham. I really enjoyed Pontevedra’s old town and the charm of narrow streets, many plazas, and cafes. People seemed active and enjoying being in the present. I could go back for a longer visit.

Today, our Camino takes us on a dirt and paved trail, through small towns, vineyards, family farms, and more deciduous forest. The forecast was for 70% chance rain, which I was dreading for obvious reasons: not fun getting wet and walking 25 km and concern about wet feet and blisters. The dark clouds were threatening mid-morning. I brought all my rain armor: rain jacket, poncho (over rain jacket so my backpack wouldn’t get wet), another pair of shoes and socks, moleskin in case of pending blisters, several ziplock bags for stuff not get soaked, and TSK…an umbrella.☂️ 

Happily, the temperature stayed moderate in mid 70s and NO rain! Woohoo!

  

    

 

Good opportunities for pit stops and breaks to rest are helpful. 

We walked where Romans built the original road. So many people have stepped on these stones over the millennia. Some were cold and wet, others were hot. Most were tired. The small streams that flow next to the trail must have been a relief. 

  

There were many hikers on the Camino. People of all shapes and ages. Some looked completely unfit. Then they passed me on the trail! We had some fun moments. One was when we came around the corner and faced a rather large group. They were  sitting on granite walls on either side of the trail, forming sort of an arbor with their walking sticks. As we walked under them, they kept chanting and laughing “buen Camino”. We did a little dance, bowed, and thanked them with laughter in return.

The Camino is such a celebration of life that everyone cheers each other on. 

June 26, Caldas de Reis to Padron, 19km

We were on the Camino walking through town along the Umia River at 8am. Back following Via Romana No. XIX (the actual documented number of the Roman road!). Along the way we saw a former mill, water diversions, parts of town.

  

 

  

 

A lot of photos from the Camino today. Most are of scenes that I found representative of the wonderful mood the Camino exhibits, other walkers, including lots of young people, and stops along my way. I met 2 Polish guys at one of the stops. They are from Krakow and work for Cisco there. A global community on the Camino for sure! 

My Camino Passport is filling up with stamps. I would not have believed it if someone had told me I would be enthusiastic to collect stamps on a little paper pamphlet. But I have enjoyed it a lot! It’s because of the kind and generous people along the way.

Someone sent me the link below of our last leg, tomorrow, from Padron to Santiago. It gives you a good sense of how this Camino goes.  Notice the drone images, very cool!

https://youtu.be/cP72FoEbs-0

June 27, Padron to Santiago de Compostela, 26 km

This is the last day on my Camino until I reach Santiago de Compostela. I am told it is the hardest, because of a lot of steep uphill with no shade. Today, Friday, we expect high 80s, probably warmer on the road. I am so happy I brought my cooling towel (cools my neck), my triple hydration powder with electrolytes, my power bars, light cotton shirts, and my big hat. These essentials have made it possible not to overheat. One of our group had a mild heatstroke a few days ago. 

My left piriformis muscle had me concerned on the first day. Continued stretches. Lots of hydration. Vitamin I. 

 

 

  

We made it! 126 Km.

The last day was tough, especially the last 3 km. It really helped for me to “go slow” - I was tagging along with a group of young high school students. My group had some very fast walkers, so instead of being last, I charged ahead of them, expecting them to pass me anyway. They arrived about 30 minutes after me in Santiago, having taken a few breaks. 

Along the way, people cheered the walkers, the students sang songs, and were silly, which added a welcome distraction from my hurting feet and the heat of the day. We walked through lush farmland, backyard gardens, and on the old Roman road #19. As we neared town, the narrow trail got a bit busy and funneled bicyclists, horses, dogs, and lots of walkers. 

As I entered town, the walkers dispersed, as if on a large river. I followed the yellow shells and arrows. And as soon as I saw a pit stop, I veered into it for a cold beer - “cervesa por favor”!

Once I was refreshed, I continued down the main street (Alameda) bounded by 1960s tall buildings, only stopping at a fruit store to buy some delicious donut peaches.  Then, on to the main square, Praza de Obradoiro, and Cathedral of Santiago. 

Tonight I am staying at a former seminary, next to the Cathedral.  What a treat!

A short video of people on horseback cheering Caminoways walkers.

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Another short video of young people celebrating reaching Santiago.

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These are my rewards for completing 126 km of the Camino Portuguese!  WOOHOO!

June 28, Santiago de Compostela, Old Town, Market, around old town

What a luxury to wake up at 6:30, not have to wear a backpack, enjoy a leisurely breakfast, and two nights in a former seminary, now hotel. 

Only two scheduled activities today: a walking tour of old Santiago at 10 am and at 8pm a massage.

The walking tour of old town was excellent! I learned about this UNESCO site, the Cathedral, the strategy of the nobles (Aragon time) to build a hospital next to the cathedral so that people are thankful to the Catholic Church for free healthcare, a nearby school for orphans, nun’s cloister, former prison, the monastery (where I am staying), the current government offices, and the farmer’s market. I LOVE the farmer’s market and hung out there most of the morning.

Did you know that Galicia is home to bagpipers? Celtic influence is strong here. 

In my monastery, at the end of the hall where my room is, I found a big empty hall with tables, chairs, and a breeze. It is about 4 pm, 93F outside, and siesta time. I don’t feel guilty not exploring. I am enjoying bare feet and a cool space with an Estrella. Below, a group of Poles (yes mom and Kas!) are singing. So, energizing! Now the bagpipes! Now church bells! 

People from all over the globe. Different cultures, religious beliefs/or not, politics, habits, lifestyles. Here with a common purpose - celebrating arriving in Santiago de Compostela! Here, today, the world is getting along!

   

 

 

   

 

 

  

 

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Barnacles, razor clams, octopus, and scallops are Galician specialties. Bagpipers in old town. Inside the Cathedral you can see gold and silver from the “colonies” artfully displayed. My quiet writing spot.

June 29, A day trip to the end of the world - Finisterre, Muros, Muxia, Ezaro

Yesterday, I was notified that my day trip to Lugo was cancelled, so instead, I arranged to go to “the end of the world”, as the Romans believed it to be - Finisterre.

In contrast to our small, seven-person hiking group, today’s excursion was on a large bus. The bus was almost full, mostly with Spaniards, from southern Spain. However, the woman that sat down next to me was from…Newark, Bay Area. Small world!!  Also, she knows my friend Teresa (yes, Teresa- Cherrie, you both played volleyball). 

Our tour guide shared more history about Santiago. After spreading the Word on the Iberian Peninsula, he went back to Jerusalem at the ripe age of between 35 - 45, only to be beheaded by the Romans in 44 AD. The medieval legend of Santiago states that after his martyrdom, his disciples took his body, placed it in stone boat (!?!) and sailed it to Galicia. He was buried in the forest, that is now the location of Santiago de Compostela. In the early 9th century, a hermit allegedly discovered his tomb, which led to the founding of Santiago de Compostela.

We visited: Muros, a well-preserved 15th Century maritime village. While everyone went to souvenir shops, I went to cool off and walked down the pier, where the fishermen eyed me suspiciously. They have steps off the pier into the ocean. I walked down the last steps, sat down, took off my sandals and gleefully put my feet in the clear, cool water, buzzing with life. 

Little camouflaged crabs, barnacles, and fish were entertaining me. 

 

 

 

 I had a surprise fish visit - see the short video below.

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Gregorian chants on the Costa del Muerte.

In Carnota, we saw the longest grain holding building (Oreo) in Galicia. In Ezaro, we saw a hydroelectric plant and the only waterfalls that fall into the Atlantic Ocean.

Then, in Finisterre we reached a km 0 on the Camino (another is in Santiago). I had delicious pulpo Gallego for lunch. After lunch we went to the “Costa del Morte”, so named because of the high winds, bad weather, big waves, and lots of rocks that caused tremendous ship wrecks. In one location where the ocean was pounding the rocks, in the adjacent church, the monks were singing Gregorian chants. It was beautifully eerie. And, of course, we walked another Roman bridge.

The high on the coast was 73F, in Santiago was 96F today, and in Madrid 101F. Ooof, even though I love hot weather, no nearby pool makes it tough.

June 30, High-Speed train to Madrid.

All packed ready for the train station. My main activities are travel and getting re-situated in Madrid. 

The high-speed train was on time, 11:48 am, efficient, and extremely pleasant. I met Alex, an engineering student from Barcelona, who walked the Camino Francesej. Much harder than the Portuguese, because it is through the Pyrenees. He was interested in comparing notes about writing. 

 

 

 The high-speed train whisked us through the mountains, farmlands, and forests at a steady 300 km per hour. I made it to Madrid in about 3 hours. Santiago was a steamy 87F , but Madrid is a steamy 98F today.  Yesterday, it was 101F. I am staying at the Hotel Europa, as recommended by Rick Steves. It is on the Plaza del Sol, a pedestrian zone, so I was dropped off about 1/4 mile from the front door. the Plaza is jamming! It is high paseo, 6 pm.The temperature has a relief. Thunderstorms! As I walked through the area, rain and tremendous thunderstorms came down. Very dramatic. No stop to activity in the streets! A lot of buzz and young people. The paseo is in full force, despite rain, thunderstorms. Of course, I did not bring my umbrella on my walk (I walked out without checking the weather). I only carried it almost 5,800 miles! 

Now the rain receded, and the crowd flow is back in full swing.  I found a store with refreshments and headed back to sit on my balcony overlooking the square. I have a lovely breeze up here, I  can enjoy the action from the second floor, and I am protected from the rain. 

Some history, sources: Wiki, Rick Steve’s, ChatGPT. Plaza del Sol. It was originally the15 to 16th century gate to Madrid’s eastern side, facing sunrise. It became the key entry point to the growing capital. In the 18th century, under King Carlos III, major urban reforms occurred and it became a central hub with open public spaces. 

The Royal post office was built in 1766 and still dominates the Sol plaza. In the 19th century, the plaza became the political and cultural center of Madrid life with many shops, cafes, and meeting places. Historical events of note: 1808 uprising against Napoleon’s troops during the Peninsular was. There is a plaque about this in the plaza.  

In the 20th century, Plaza del Sol has been a site of civic events and public demonstrations. After the end of Franco’s dictatorship, it became a symbol of democratic expression. Currently, it is a major pedestrian-only zone.

July 1 - Madrid, Plaza de San Miguel, San Miguel market, Tapas, Flamenco

Before breakfast, the crowds, and heat, I walked to Plaza San Miguel (recommended by Rick Steves). It did not disappoint! First stop, cafe Americano con Leche at Starbucks (always a reliable source for a wake-up jolt). Here, as I was enjoying my coffee, I met the first Roma. There is police presence everywhere, so the central area is very safe. Tourism is such a big economy that the Spanish authorities keep these areas very clean and protected. I am using mobile maps with a voice to guide me from place to place.

  

     

  

   

      

After the market, I walked to the Royal Palace and happened to time it inadvertently well, so I inadvertently watched the drum roll for the change of guard. It was late morning, so the heat was not yet penetrating my organs. Since I had a tapas, wine, and flamenco event for 5 hours late afternoon, I decided not to push it and get back to hotel Europa to refresh. On the way back I stopped by the market, bought refreshments and hoofed it to room 219.

I am glad I took a break. The tapas and wine tour were the best excursions yet. Our guide, Marina, was sweet and did not rush us.  Besides me, our group comprised 3 sisters from Columbia, a young couple from Argentina, and a couple from Southern California. The tapas were not what I expected. 

 

 

The first location was one of Madrid’s original central buildings, dating back to 1600s. Apparently, they built caves for safety. So we were in a former cave, now a restaurant, tasting delicious mushrooms with garlic, chorizo, lemon juice, olive oil, and parsley. These were scrumptious. The interesting part was they had 2 toothpicks, so when you lifted them up, you could keep the juice in the cap if you took the whole mushroom in your mouth. I can’t wait to make these! The mushrooms were paired with traditional sangria. I have the ingredients list.

 

Our second stop was a famous ham restaurant. One of the hams we tasted had been cured for 4 years. All the hams were from pigs that mostly feed on acorns. They definitely had a distinctive nutty taste that I have never experienced before. We had chorizo as well and a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our last tapas stop was in the literary district, dedicated to Spanish writers, at a restaurant that specializes in beef. We had a braised, slow cooked slab of cheek of beef with small cut up potatoes. The beef was soft like butter with a fabulous light wine sauce.  

After this lovely meal I was quite full, no need for dinner. At this point our group split. The three Columbian sisters and I headed for the Flamenco show, while the rest of the group went for more wine tasting and roof-top sunset views. What I didn’t know was that our guide carried on with the wine tasting group and I was to carry on with the sisters. Small detail - the sisters did not speak English and none of us knew how to get back to the Flamenco theater.

Technology is amazing! It came to our rescue! We used Google maps to get us to the address of the show, then I used Google Translate to communicate with them. They were so sweet and appreciated being able to communicate. We had quite a conversation, a bit delayed with the translations, but nonetheless, so much better than just staring and smiling.   

 

 

The Flamenco show was incredibly emotional. Explosive, intimate, seductive, and totally energetic. The main components of Flamenco:

The song, mournful, stories of loss, struggle, passion.  The dance (with a lot of tapping), visual expression of music’s soul and intensity. The guitar, rich in setting the rhythm and mood.  Handclaps, provide encouragement and vocal support. The costumes are also wonderful.

 

July 2, Cooking class: gazpacho and mixed paella

My last day in Madrid. My four-hour cooking class was interesting and reassured me that Mediterranean food is the best! We went to the local market, bought the ingredients, then paired up. There were 10 of us. A couple from Mexico, 2 mothers with daughters (Americans living in Madrid), me, and George from Chile (he was my cooking partner). 

 

 

I will miss Spain. I love the energy, food, history, and exploring the neighborhoods. I am looking forward, however, to getting back in the pool, seeing family, and friends. I also really look forward to strong coffee in early mornings!

July 3

Good bye, Madrid. So long Spain. I will be back!

Afterthoughts

When I planned the Camino, I thought it would be time mostly for reflection about where I am in my life, where I have been, and how I want to spend the rest of my days. Instead, I had to focus on the present. A lot of my life has been planning ahead. Being “in the moment” is not easy. I am glad I was forced to practice this.